A while back, my nephew asked me for some advice on buying a bike for his daughter. They live in Phoenix, where I also spent a decade, and where I returned to cycling back in 2008. Here is what I sent him…
The 1st thing to consider is what type of riding she will be doing. Will she be serious about cycling, or is it just for fun? Will you ride with her, offering a bit of a challenge for her to keep up with Daddy? Will she ride with friends, and what do they ride? Also, which is more important, to look cool or to ride well and have fun? (For kids today, this is a very important question. In fact, it was important when I was a kid too!)
Next, when you see an advertisement for a 20” or 26” bike, this is not the frame size but the wheel size. Generally, a 20” bike is for smaller children, while a 26” bike is for older kids. A 26” wheel is the standard wheel size, even for adults. (The whole 700c and 650c thing was TMI at this point.)
Bike size is actually determined by frame size, measured from the bottom center of the frame, or bottom bracket, to the top tube, the tube that runs from the handlebars to the seat post. She should be able to straddle the bike, and stand with both feet flat on the ground, allowing about 2 inches clearance between top tube and crotch. When mounted, place one of her heels on one of the pedals at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Her knee should lock in this position. Then, when she places the ball of that foot on the pedal, the knee should be slightly bent. This is the most efficient, most comfortable position for pedaling. If you can achieve this position, the height of the saddle is correct.
Here is a link to the REI Bike Fit page. This should be helpful. Bike fit is critical to safe, enjoyable cycling – for anyone, but especially for kids.
Most bike frames today are made by 1 or 2 plants in China and virtually all of them are strong. The key to buying a quality, long-lasting ride is found in the components, the stuff that hangs off the bike’s frame and make it go – and stop!
Wheel strength is very important. Weak rims go “out of true” regularly, making the ride wobbly and unsafe. Wobbly wheels also have trouble when breaking, since the brake pads may not contact the rim properly. Look for strong rims with a large number of spokes. Spin the wheels before buying to ensure they are true from the factory. If they wobble before anyone has ridden the bike, they won’t stay true for you, or her.
Needless to say, brakes are also important. Make sure there is plenty of adjustment available, allowing you to tighten their grip on the wheel rim as the brake pads begin to wear. Make sure the brakes are mounted properly, making contact with the wheel rim, not the tires or spokes. Also, the front of the brake pad should make contact before the rear of the pad (by millimeters at least). If the brakes squeak during a test ride, they are probably not mounted correctly. (Don’t allow them to tell you it’s just because the bike is new.)
If the brake pads make contact with a tire, the bike will stop almost instantly, usually sending your child flying over the handlebars.
A single speed bike is the simplest, easiest bike to maintain, but multi-speed bikes are easier to ride. If you choose a multi-speed bike, make sure the shifters work well and that the derailleurs work properly. Test the shifting thoroughly, moving through all speeds repeatedly. Twist shifters, where the grips are rotated to change speeds, are convenient and easy to use, but they are also the cheapest and least reliable. Thumb shifters tend to be more accurate and reliable. Make sure they are mounted conveniently close to the brake levers and grips.
Avoid bikes with suspension systems or shock absorbers. She will not need them to simply tool around the neighborhood and they make pedaling less efficient, absorbing some of the energy from every pedal stroke and wasting effort. They are only necessary for riding trails.
Tires and tubes will make a huge difference too, especially in the Phoenix area. Knobby tires are good on trails but bad on pavement. They also pick up more junk, which can lead to more punctures and flat tires. The smoother the tires the smoother the ride. Plus, they tend to roll over sharp objects and puncture less often. Cheap bikes have thin tires and tubes, so are more prone to punctures and flats. At a minimum, you should buy some “puncture resistant tubes” to replace the tubes that come with the bike. There are “goat heads” all over the place down there and punctures are very common.
Hope this helps. If you have more questions, don’t hesitate to ask.
Buying a bicycle for a child is a serious task, regardless of age. You want her to be able to enjoy herself, but also to have fun riding. The big box stores offer plenty of choices, but they tend to skimp on the details – like tires, tubes, and wheel strength. Spending a few extra bucks on a bike for your kid makes a great deal of sense, despite the fact that they may outgrow it soon. The market for used bikes is strong in every town and city across the US, so you should be able to sell her used bike easily when it’s time for her to graduate to a larger size.
For more information on buying a kid’s bike, kids and cycling, or buying a bike for yourself, check out one or both of these eBooks from our cycling website, Mile Hi Cycle Guy…
Rediscover Your Joy with Bicycles and Cycling
Rediscover Your Joy with Bicycles and Cycling #2
Both of these cycling eBooks are packed with valuable information that will help the beginning or returning cyclist with the choice of the right bike, how to save money when buying a bike, making sure the bike fits you or your child, essential equipment and accessories, basic bike maintenance, where to ride safely, how to include the family, and so much more. At just $2.99 each, they are a great value.
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